Sitting on the dock of the bay…
Otis Redding’s classic hit was playing in my head as we headed south on Interstate 5 for the San Francisco Bay area. We decided to take an impromptu road trip to Carmel, California, for a few days to check out the area and get relief from the cold and rain of Seattle. My wife, Mish, and I had visited before during our honeymoon, but our son, Elijah, had never been there before, so this was a new experience for him. We packed the car with clothes, snacks, and the dog, Albie, and off we went on another family adventure.
We left after work, so we got a late start. The plan was to drive as far as we wanted and then get a hotel somewhere in route. The next day we would drive the rest of the way in one long segment. Fortunately, I-5 is an easy drive. It runs from the Canadian border all the way south to the Mexican border. We made it as far as Salem, Oregon, and then called it a night.
The next day we got an early start and continued on our way to the Monterey Bay area without incident. Mish found us a nice Motel 6 in the heart of Monterey. It was no frills, but inexpensive, clean, and convenient. A good night’s rest, hot shower, and coffee and we were ready to explore!
Monterey Bay is an incredibly beautiful place. The bay is home to numerous species of birds, sea otters, seals, seal ions, dolphins, whales, fish, and more. Because of the plethora of marine life, commercial fishing was established at what is now the famous Cannery Row, one-time center of the sardine packing industry. Fishing collapsed in the 1950s, but the historical buildings remain. Today, instead of housing fish processing factories, they house quaint shops, restaurants, and the magnificent Monterey Bay Aquarium.
If you want a good historical lesson on the area, you can read John Steinbeck’s novels Cannery Row (1945) and Sweet Thursday (1954). Both were the basis for the 1982 movie Cannery Row, starring Nick Nolte and Debra Winger.
Other notable past and present residents of Monterey include: authors Jack London, Robert Luis Stevenson, and Josh Billings; musicians Paul Anka, Michael Nesmith of the Monkees, and Frank Zappa; actors Clint Eastwood, Betty White, Doris Day, and Joan Fontaine; comedian George Lopez; artist Salvador Dali; TV personality Tory Belleci of the Myth Busters; and businessman Charles Schwab.
In the morning we had a wonderful breakfast at the Old Monterey Café on Alvarado Street. The food was amazing! I was at a meeting and running behind, so I caught up with my family at the café. My wife pre-ordered for me a salmon omelet with a side of pancakes and fresh orange juice. Heaven! The service was exceptional too.
After refueling myself, I needed to walk around a bit. We headed next door to the quaint little village of Carmel-By-the Sea. Check-in next week for day-2 of our family travel.
Tip toe, through the tulips…
It’s that time of year again. We all start to quietly ask ourselves why we live here. The rain has not stopped since November and even us weather hardened Northwesterners are thinking of migrating south for sunnier climates. Everyone’s daily wardrobe consists of Gortex. Muddy shoes and pant bottoms have become the new fashion trends. Cabin fever set in weeks ago and has now reached critical temperature. To make matters worse, the clouds have obscured the once uplifting views of the mountains so everywhere you look is just depressing grey mist. The cold wet winter has dragged on and on with no end in sight. Not even a hot Starbuck’s mocha lifts spirits much. Just when you think that you cannot take the gloom anymore, from the rain-soaked ground a colorful sign of spring suddenly appears.
In Skagit Valley, about 60 miles north of Seattle, the tulips have returned! April brings showers, but also colorful fields of the flower to the region. Skagit Valley boasts the largest tulip growing area in the world outside of Holland. We can thank George Gibbs for this welcome sign of spring. In 1883 he planted the first five tulip bulbs as an experiment. So successful were the flowers that in 1905 the U.S. government ordered 15,000 bulbs from Holland for George to plant as a government agricultural study. The results were conclusive; tulips will grow quite well here. It appears flowers are not very nationalistic after all. Thus, the American tulip industry was born.
Soon people came from all over the area to witness the colorful fields of tulips. In 1984, the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival officially began. Today, it is one of Washington State’s largest festivals, attracting over one million people over its 30 day run. The festival includes walking tours of the fields, bus tours around various fields, concerts, displays, the Mount Vernon Street Fair, and the Kiwanis Club Salmon Barbeque. The whole valley becomes gripped with tulip enthusiasm.
The largest tulip farm is Roozen Gaarde. Entrance to their fields and displays is $7.00 per person 15 years and older. The farm was founded by sixth generation tulip grower William Roozen, who immigrated to America from Holland in 1946 with the goal of establishing his own tulip business in Skagit Valley. The farm is impressive. It has several display gardens, a large gift shop, outdoor eatery, and, of course, the magnificent fields. Word of advice, wear mud proof boots. Also, be prepared for crowds and traffic. I recommend getting in and out early before the tour buses arrive.
Another must see at the festival is Tulip Town. It is also a $7.00 entrance fee. It is open 9:00am to 5:00pm seven days a week during the month of April. The town has flower displays, craft vendors, food, music, kites, and more tulip fields. No pets please (We left Albie to guard the house.). Be prepared to take lots of pictures. The vibrant colors make for amazing backgrounds for family or individual pictures. More artistic photographers create amazing pieces showcasing just the tulips in their natural beauty, like Mish.
If you don’t want all of the festivities with your flower viewing, there are many open tulip fields that are free to the public. You simply park your car on the side of the road and stroll into the field. To be honest, a tulip is a tulip. Even without the entourage that surrounds the pay to get in fields, the flowers are still singularly beautiful.
We strolled through the tulip festival for about three hours. By then, I was ready for a break. After all, a guy can only handle so much flower power. Our son, Elijah, went willingly along, but he too was ready to move on. We left the tulips behind feeling much more cheery and able to cope with the dreary weather knowing that it was coming to an end. Heading to the all you can eat buffet at the Tulalip Casino also helped boost Elijah and my spirits too.
The Mythical Moose
Not a moose, a racoon.
As crazy as it may sound, I was beginning to wonder if moose were real or just a clever Canadian joke on gullible Americans. Usually, I am not a conspiracy theorist (the American moon landings did happen and there was only one shooter on the grassy knoll), but my suspicion grew from years of never having actually seen a moose. For those of you that have followed our family adventures, you know that we love zoos. We have gone out of our way to visit as many zoos around the world as we can. Mish and I even got married in the San Diego Wild Animal Park (amazing, but true).
However, in all of our travels and years living in the beautiful Pacific Northwest (supposed moose country) I have never spied one, wild or captive. Being a science person, I naturally demand evidence of claims, especially if they are as fantastic as a creature like a moose.
Also not a moose, a wolf.
Moose are rumored to be up to 7 feet high at the shoulder and 1,500 pounds in weight! Their antlers can get over 6 feet across. They are solitary creatures that do not form herds, which, I have been told, is why they are very difficult to spot in the wild. You would think that something that big would stand out, seriously.
Still no moose, a beaver.
All my life I have been told stories of the mythical moose of Canada. I have seen many pictures of moose over the years and even stuffed and mounted ones on hunters’ walls as trophies. I have also seen pictures of unicorns, dragons, and Big Foot too. So, pictures don’t necessarily mean indisputable proof. There is a stuffed jack-o-lope and merman on display at the Ye Old Curiosity Shop in Seattle, but I am pretty sure that those are fakes (the mummy there is real though).
I have been repeatedly told by zoological moose experts that keeping moose in captivity is extremely difficult and dangerous. Ok, I have seen polar bears, giraffes, rhinoceros, elephants, lions, and a host of other amazing animals in captivity. How can a single moose be more difficult than any of them? I’ve even seen a platypus (and if any animal rightfully can be accused of being made up it’s a platypus)!
Nope, a bear, not a moose.
So, the thought that maybe moose were really a creature concocted by a few drunken Canadians over a camp fire while enjoying their Molson golden brew and poutine formulated in my paranoid American mind.
I could hear them laughing, “Hey, let’s play a joke on our southern neighbors, hey!”
“What kind of joke, hey?”
“We’ll take Jacque’s old stuffed dear head and sew some carved antlers on it and tell them it’s a giant mutant elk creature, hey”
“That’s a great idea, hey! They’ll come up looking for one and we’ll tell them moose are like Big Foot, hey, and hard to see so keep your eye out, hey!”
“Cool, pass me another Molson, hey.”
Admittedly, I have told our boys that moose are not real. Of course this has caused them some confusion and embarrassment in school. After all, I am probably the only dad that dared question the authenticity of the legendary moose. I was setting an example for them. I was standing by my scientific scrutiny and skepticism. My reasoning was sound. I was sure I was on the verge of finally uncovering the great Canadian hoax, until this weekend.
On a cool drizzly Washington morning, we visited the Northwest Trek Wildlife Park in Eatonville. There we boarded the caravan to tour the animals in their habitats. I was greatly enjoying the relaxed ride when the tour guide and driver unexpectedly announced, “Up ahead on the left you will see our resident moose males in the clearing.” What?! Moose?! Here?! I sprang up in my seat and anxiously looked out the window.
As we rounded a long curve in the road I beheld four large elk like creatures casually sitting in the grass and quietly defying my belief in their non-existence.
I went into complete sensory overload. My steadfast belief that those prankster Canadians had made up this extraordinary animal was shattered. All I could do was stare in amazement and disbelief. Meanwhile, our son, Elijah, pointed and laughed. He made sure to take lots of pictures of the moose for me. My wife just gave me that knowing smile and didn’t say a word (thankfully).
Now I wonder, maybe Big Foot is real too? Nah!
*I hope that our boys have not been too traumatized by the epic moose controversy. I will try not to talk about my alien conspiracy theories in the future until I have more information too.
** I also hope that my northern neighbors will forgive me doubting their honesty in regards to the whole moose mess thing. Sorry Canada.
Now that the smoke has cleared and the dust settled, Americans are coming to terms with the 2016 presidential election. In what is probably the greatest political upset in U.S. history, Donald Trump bested Hillary Clinton. No matter which side you were rooting for the election result was a surprise for most people. I think that no one was more surprised than Trump himself. I cannot help but wonder if her really wanted it and was planning all along on not getting elected. Unfortunately for Clinton supports, he got it.
I remember living in England when the 2008 presidential election was going on. President George Bush was not widely liked in Europe and Barack Obama was seen as a hope for the future. I was amazed at how closely the Brits followed our election. They seemed to know more about the candidates than many Americans. Europeans in general felt like they had a huge stake in the results (which they do). When Obama won the election, they were genuinely overjoyed.
I wonder what people around the world are thinking now of America? From media reports, Trump does not appear to enamor other nations’ citizens as much as he has some segments of our population. I will admit, I was not on the Trump side. I am seriously concerned for my country and the world, but am trying to stay hopeful.
I would love to hear from fellow world travelers how people in your area of the world view the election. Please let us know. I think that we all have a little anxiety over the next four years.
God must love us because he gave us the coffee bean.
We Pacific Northwesterners love coffee. After all, Starbucks was founded here in Seattle in 1971. Thanks to our obsession with the delicious brew, there are now 23,000 Starbucks coffeehouses worldwide, with 560 in Washington State! Seattle boasts 142 alone. That is one for every 4,000 Seattle residents. That’s not even close to the most in one city. Seoul, South Korea, has a whopping 2,100! There is no doubt that coffee has evolved to more than a mere beverage, it is a cultural phenomenon. I definitely want (need) my mocha latte pick-me-up every day (sometimes more if I am having a rough day).
I hold Starbucks in very high esteem and it is my go-to coffee of choice. However, I do love to taste test other types when we are out and about on a family adventure. I make sure that I stop into a new place every time we are out (strictly for scientific comparison of taste of course). Sometimes I am sadly disappointed by the quality of a mocha latte, but other times I find a true java delight. You need the perfect combination of great rich coffee, friendly barista, and relaxing ambiance for the maximum effect. Most people have their favorite spot. If you are headed our way and want to have a really good coffee experience, please stop into one of these cafés.
1. Java Reef – Seaside, Oregon (2674 Highway 101): Very whimsical décor with a drive-thru and outdoor seating. The owner and barista is very friendly and polite. The coffee is amazing! For the White coffee’s they roast their own Wabi Sabi White espresso blend, which is made from the finest Costa Rican coffee beans. Watch out, their white coffees can have as much as 3X the caffeine as regular dark roast! Their “Shark Attack” has some serious bite! 4 / 5 beans. Check them out @ https://www.facebook.com/JavaReefCoffee/?ref=page_internal
2. Rainshadow Coffee Roasting Company – Sequim, Washington (157 W Cedar Street): Hand-picked coffees from around the world and roasted right on the premises. Their coffee is truly superb! The views of the Olympic Mountains from the café are spectacular also. 5 / 5 beans. Find them @ http://www.rainshadowcoffee.com/
3. Moonstruck Chocolate Café – Portland, Oregon (6th and Alder Street): Combine my two favorite food groups, coffee and chocolate, and you have a winner! Moonstruck chocolates are simply amazing. When they blend their gourmet home-made chocolate into their rich coffee, they make a mocha latte of sheer perfection. I would drive all the way from Seattle to Portland for one (I just might…). 5 / 5 beans. Check them out @ http://www.moonstruckchocolate.com/category/cafes
4. ChocMo – Poulsbo, Washington (19880 7th Ave NE): Founded by three high school seniors from Bainbridge as their senior project, it has taken off and surpassed their wildest dreams. The three friends started from making chocolate truffles in their mom’s kitchen to a successful gourmet café. Their mocha lattes (as well as all of their fine chocolate concoctions) are worth the drive. 5 / 5 beans. Be tempted @ http://www.chocmo.com.
5. Café Allegro – Seattle, Washington (4214 University Way NE): It is possibly the oldest espresso shop in Seattle, believe it or not older than Starbucks! The café is hidden in a small alley off of the main road, so it can be difficult to find. But it is worth the extra effort. The shop boasts good coffee in a historic setting next to the University of Washington, very hipster. 4 / 5 beans. Locate them @ http://seattleallegro.com/
Let us know your favorite coffee shop. I am always looking for a good cup of Joe when we travel. Cheers!
Mishele and I just celebrated our 22nd wedding anniversary! Actually, we started dating 26 years ago. Amazingly, she has put up with me for that long.
We decided to treat ourselves to a short family adventure, but without the whole family (ie. no kids). We even left the dog, Albie, behind, which he is still sulking about. We went back to one of our favorite weekend get-away places, Victoria. I have posted about it before, but wanted to let everyone share in some fond memories.
We were very glad to see that this quaint little capital city nestled on the southern tip of Vancouver Island has only gotten better over time. Downtown is a treasure hunt of unique shops and upscale retailers with many tasty eateries. I recommend the Beaver Tail if you have a sweet tooth (602 Broughton Street). Of course, The Empress is still impressive. We keep saying that the next time we are going to stay there. We stayed at the convenient, and more affordable, Harbor Towers, which is very nice. The staff was amazing and made us feel very welcome. Plus the view from our room was spectacular.
We had a very delicious dinner at a wonderful Greek restaurant called Millos (716 Burdett Avenue). The atmosphere and food were both amazing. Later that evening, we took a romantic stroll along the water front to take in the magnificent scenery. Along the way Mishele bought some chopped-up herring from a vendor at Fisherman’s Wharf to feed an extremely eager harbor seal. They are like adorable puppies of the water. By his tame nature and round girth, I think he was well accustomed to animal loving tourists giving out free meals. I guess begging from sympathetic humans is easier than chasing down your own meal.
The next day we took the short bus ride to Butchart Gardens. They are an inspiration to any aspiring gardener and intimidating to the rest of us husbands who have to help their green-thumbed wives. Just meandering through the lush landscape is relaxing.
Unfortunately, the M.V. Coho only makes the run from Port Angeles, WA, to Victoria twice a day during the off season. So, we had to catch the last sailing or be stuck in Canada for another day. It was tempting…
Four our 23rd wedding anniversary we will have to go back to Europe!
Elijah kept the family tradition alive by winning the 2016 Great Kilted Run in Seattle last Sunday! He took first place overall, not bad for 14 years old. His older brother, Aaron, won the same race back to back in 2012 and 2013. Elijah wants to win the race again to at least tie his brother. Ah, sibling rivalry.
Calling all Highlanders!
It’s back! After a two year hiatus, the Great Kilted Run has returned to Seattle. Start warming up, iron your kilt, and get in the Highlands spirit for August 28th! This unique 5K is held in Magnuson Park near Sandpoint just north of the University of Washington. The Wild Smithberrys have run this race three years in a row. Our oldest son, Aaron, won the race both in 2012 and 2013. This time, it is on his younger brother, Elijah, to uphold the family tradition.
The Great Kilted Run is a very fun experience. You can either run or walk the 5K course through beautiful Magnuson Park along Lake Washington. Everyone is highly encouraged to wear a kilt. If you do not own one, which I cannot believe, you can rent one at the race for $5.00 or make one. You could even start your own Tartan design!
Aaron on the right
The race starts with a mad 50 meter dash to three swords stabbed into the ground. Runners scramble to get one of the swords. If you do, however, you must carry it through the rest of the race holding it triumphantly. Think Braveheart, but with numbers on your chest.
To give Aaron his award, they had to drag everyone out of the beer garden where they planned on having the ceremony because he was under age!
Volunteering is good for the community and you.
“How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world.” ~Anne Frank
For the past month and a half I have been volunteering weekly at the Northwest Raptor Center in Sequim. In these weeks I have rocked owls to sleep, fed eagles, have had both crows and owls bump in to me while flying and had to duck at the last second to avoid contact with a hawk speeding by. These have been some of the most exciting and adventurous moments of my summer. This is my experience with wild bird rescue and rehabilitation.
Each Wednesday, I come in and start with the water dishes. I enter each enclosure to dump the water, clean the dishes, and then refill them. With every enclosure this can take up to 30 minutes. After that I proceed with feeding. There is a chart labeling the amount of food each bird gets on the fridge making it easy to follow and not over or under feed them. Birds eat more food than one might expect. For example, a little screech owl can get 6 full size mice every 2 days.
We have a shed in the back called the “rat house” in which we raise our own mice and rats for feeding. Once the rodents are fully grown and finished breeding, we kill them, bag them, and finally freeze them for future use. This process saves both money and time (instead of having to go out and buy them).
After this, my mom and I go to the office, which contains birds that are each too injured or too small to be put in outdoor enclosures. This is where I use a towel to take them out of their crates and cradle them while my mother cleans and adds a filled water dish to each crate. When she is done, I place them back and feed them. After I do this I do any other small jobs here and there and then I am done for the day!
What a great way for a child to spend his summer! Thank you.
The Northwest Raptor Center
1051 W. Oak Court
“In Washington for the next three weeks, hopefully I don’t go insane from boredom!”
That’s an actual post by a friend of mine from the Academy, disagreeable about their summer training assignment. As a Midshipmen, once a summer it’s required we are stationed with a ship for four weeks with an enlisted “running mate” in order to learn the ropes of general ship operations. Due to the logistic nightmare of transporting and housing nearly 5,000 college-aged Navy personnel, the cruise assignments become a range of luck, from port calls in Italy to maintenance duty in Virginia (no offense). To put it nicely, it’s kind of a crap shoot.
However, as it would seem, being stationed in Washington State is not a preferred outcome for many “Mids”. Many find the overcast and light rain that stereotypically defines the Northwest to be a dire mixture of miserable and straight up depressing. I mean, honestly I can’t blame them. Despite all of its water-front property, Seattle isn’t exactly a mecca for beach bums. Yet still, the PNW is my home and I’ll be damned before I see a “Mid”, or any vacationer for that matter, willingly get on a departure plane and after being asked by the flight attendant about their visit they mutter a tiresome “ehh, it was alright.”
Now any travel blog or boastful brother-in-law will tell you to hit the main attractions: Seattle Center, Pike Place Market, Mt. Rainier, Leavenworth, etc. These are all incredible sites and a ton of family fun for a day trip. However, like any well-traveled sage will tell you, in order to get to really know a place you have to go off the beaten path. Washington still remains one of the most rugged, undeveloped states and the heart of its majesty can only be found with real sense of adventure. Plus, why go where everyone else is going?
And so, without further to do and in no particular order, I give you my personal favorite hidden spots in the beautiful state of Washington. All of these places are either completely free or require a small parking fee.
A little something for everyone…
1. Vance Creek Viaduct (Shelton, WA)
Where else could you imagine the perfect scenery for you profile picture? Sitting on a rustic rail bridge 347 feet above evergreen treetops, accented by a tin waterfall in the distance, Vance Creek tops the list of quintessential Northwest décor. Just to make it clear, technically this location is on privately owned property, but so far that hasn’t stopped thousands of Washingtonians from making the pilgrimage to this Insta-perfect site. Built during the Great Depression, the viaduct was a vital part of the Simpson Logging Co. and served as the main outlet for timber until its abandonment in the 1950s. Now the site is owned by a contracting company and, until recently, has been barred by a locked gate and frequently patrolled by security. However, due to the trending #ThatNWBridge in the early 2010s and exponential rise of earnest young travelers, the gate was taken down and security stopped. Visit at your own risk!
Getting to this location is actually less of an adventure than imagined! Simply typing in “Vance Creek Viaduct” on your smart phone’s map will turn up the correct location nine times out of ten. Traveling on the 101 just south of Skokomish, look for westerly turn-off for Bourgault Road followed by an immediate right on West Skokomish Road. I highly recommend you take NF-23 and not NF-2341/2199; the latter, while objectively more scenic, does go through private property and is patrolled often. When you do make it to the trail head, park on the side of the road in one of the gravel turnouts. Be prepared for a mile-long hike over fallen trees and brush. I think it goes without saying that if heights don’t give you good vibes, this hike is not for you.
2. Mt. Pilchuck State Park Lookout (Granite Falls, WA)
What more could you ask from a moderate day hike? Mt. Pilchuck is one of the non-volcanic mountains that Washington has to offer and arguably stand apart from its high peaked cousins due to a uniquely boulder-heavy terrain. The high altitude path with a gradual incline offers truly year-round majesty, optimally viewed from the lookout at its peak. This is also one of the few state park hikes that allow dogs! Camping is highly encouraged, backpacking the norm, and perfect for a casual day hike with the squad. Of course, like Vance Creek, the views on this hike are perfect for keeping your Instagram followers tapping.
Driving to the trail head is easy as pie; this hike is easy to find on Google Maps. From the I-5, take the 528 eastbound onto HWY-9 and then a right on 84th Street through Getchell. Follow onto HWY-92 North, hop onto the Mountain Loop Highway and the follow the signs for Pilchuck Road (should be roughly a seven mile drive from the main road. The down-side, if you consider this a down-side, is that the path to the lookout is definitely a hike! Unless you’re a familiar hiker, 5.1 miles can sound a little daunting, but it honestly goes by fast. Every turn of the trail offers new scenery and when you travel between July and October you are almost guaranteed to see some sort of furry creature. Thankfully snakes aren’t commonly found in the Western Washington!
3. The Fremont Troll (Aurora Bridge, WA)
Ok, let’s take a break from the hiking and go see something uniquely Seattle. Favorited among America’s roadside attractions (or should I say road-under) is the fearsome Troll of the Fremont Bridge. Squatting at 18-feet and with a Volkswagen big in-hand, this troll has attracted tourist and skeptics alike. Since its creation on Halloween, 1990, the sculpture has reappeared in the news as strange events have happened in its vicinity. In 1998, a bus driver was shot by a lone gunman, running the bus off the bridge and crashing into an apartment building adjacent to the troll. In 2013, several gruesome sheep skulls mysteriously appeared in a park only a block away. Perhaps the troll isn’t as innocent as it appears.
Obviously this attraction requires almost no hiking, unless you count the walk down the little gully. Finding the right place can be a little frustrating, though. While the sculpture is named the “Fremont Troll”, it is not actually under the Fremont Bridge. It actually resides under the Aurora Bridge, which is sometimes called the George Washington Bridge. To remove any doubt, it is underneath the overpass on N 36th Street, Seattle. Do not be afraid to climb on the sculpture, but, as many local will tell you, please help to keep the place pristine. No need to leave your mark…or else the troll will come after you!
4. Tubal Cain Mine and the B-17 crash site (accessible from Sequim, WA)
Ok, warm-up’s over, time for some real kick-butt hikes. If I had to recommend one serious hike for someone on the eastside of the Olympic Peninsula, it would be the Tubal Cain Mines. You want deep river valleys? Boom! Ancient navigable mine shafts? Boom! The wreck of a WWII B-17 on the shores of a beautiful glacial lake? Boo-wait…what?! Yes sire, this hike has it all. With so many different split-off trails that explore the valleys surrounding Marmot Pass, you could keep coming back too this trail and always find something new. Camping is highly encouraged! Park at the main trail head and follow the rhododendrons up the sloping path. Look out for the split off that leads to the mine shaft and follow the steep climb up the mountain side. Personally, my favorite part of the hike is gradually seeing antiquated plane parts hidden in creeks and bushes as you climb around massive boulders. The hike is like venturing into a hidden world, frozen in time.
As in the previous hikes, driving to this trail is incredibly simple, if not a little bumpy. If you can manage, I would recommend traveling in a four-wheel capable vehicle, but I witnessed some poor Prius survive the climb, so I guess anything is possible! From HWY-101, take Louella Road just south of Sequim and then a quick left on Palo Alto Road. Follow FS-2880 and after you cross the bridge start looking for signs towards Dungeness Area Trails until you arrive at the parking lot. Bring lots of water and lots of snacks! It’s a 21 mile drive from the highway and you could be hiking for over 15 miles depending on which trails you take. Better yet, bring a water filter pump and take advantage of all the convenient creeks and waterfalls you’ll cross on your hike!
5. Guler Ice Caves (Trout Lake, WA)
Traveling south down the Cascade Mountains and into the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, the geography takes a subtle change. The forests become less dense, the snowy mountain peaks are fewer and far between, and the rocks begin to take on a personality of their own. Hiking around the Mt. St. Helens area is no less magical than stepping into a fairy tale. Just a small part of the majesty is as a result of the old lava tubes and natural bridges that scatter the region. The Guler Ice Caves are a natural made freezer; volcanic rock insulates the cold air and form year-round ice masses. Before the refrigerator became commonplace in Washington, huge barges would cross the Columbia River and transport the ice around the Northwest. This destination is surprisingly very kid friendly and offers plenty of opportunities to climb around this frozen wonderland…in July! Just remember to bring several flashlights and batteries, lighting it absolutely terrible at the back of the caves! A sweater may also be appreciated for extended visits.
From Vancouver, Washington take Highway 14 east to the town of Bingen. Take Highway 141 to Trout Lake and go 4 miles past the Mt. Adams Ranger Station. Turn left on a dirt road (forest service road 301) and it’s a short drive to the caves from there. Another neat attraction in the area are the Natural Bridges, which are back on FR 24 and west another mile. The area has very good signage and the ranger station has detailed maps of the area. While the caves and bridges are the major points of interests, the area offers dozens of small hikes that loop around waterfalls and offer great picnic locations. This can be a great day trip, but in all honesty make sure you go to the Mt. St. Helens Viewpoint! Easily one of the best views in the country for a quick pit stop towards the ice caves!
6. Shi shi Beach (La Push, WA)
¡Vamos a la playa! Imagine the most picturesque beaches of Miami; the warm radiant sun and the tropical breeze that tickles your skin. Yeeeaaah…you won’t find that in Washington. However, in the usual mystical spirit of the Northwest, the Pacific coast captures a certain je ne sais quoi of dynamic beauty. Shi shi Beach is the crown jewel PNW beaches (by the way, just so you don’t sound too much like a tourist, it’s pronounced “shy-shy”). The trip is marked with dozens of seaweed-lined caves and gorgeous stone arches that captures the raging sea. The gray sands trap vibrant tide pools that enclose entire micro ecosystems of sea stars, algae, and crabs. It’s like stepping into an alien world. Plus, as many award-winning photographers have discovered, Shi Shi is probably one of the best spots to take the perfect sunset pictures.
While easy to navigate to, Shi Shi is a bit of a drive from the Sound and definitely not a day trip from Seattle. Yet, if you are in Olympic National Park (the great ONP yo) then why not spend an extra day visiting the coast. I classify this as a “hidden gem” because most other beach-goes end up visiting Long Beach or La Push, skipping right over Shi Shi. You can find the beach on your phone no problem, it’s not exactly secreted. None the less, traffic here will be next to none. Just south of the Makah Indian Reservation, follow Main Line Road west off of HWY-112. At this point, the roads do not really have names, but there is signage aplenty to point you the right way.
7. Ghost Town (Govan, WA)
Man, all these awesome places and the list goes on! Next up we have some prime real estate in Lincoln County, WA. Two bedroom, two bath, full kitchen (with an island), and the site of the most brutal murder in Washington history…hmmm. Starting bids, anyone? Named after railroad engineer R. B. Govan, the town has become the site of several unsolved axe murders. Most famous among these was the death of Judge J. A. Lewis in 1902 which caught on in western newspapers as “the most brutal crime ever committed in the country”. Sparing the gory details, it was believed that robbery was the killer’s motive and since then, the county has never been the same. The area was deemed so haunted, in fact, that the community was bypassed by US Route 2.
Near the “dead” center of the state (I’m sorry), Govan is at the midpoint between Spokane and Wenatchee. Taking Interstate 2 eastbound towards Wilbur, take either Bruce Road or Bodeau Road south into the little town of Govan. The infamous rotting schoolhouse, the epicenter of the area’s hauntings, should be in plain sight standing tall among the amber fields. Feel free to walk around and inside this building…at your own risk.
8. Mt. Ellinor (Hoodsport, WA)
This mountain holds a sentimental place in my heart and stands today as my favorite hike in the Olympic Peninsula. The only infuriating part of this trek is that I’ve never been able to perfectly describe the area’s ambiance to my friends. I guess you just have to be there to understand. The path begins conventional enough; a slight incline on a dirt path over roots and mossy stones. Yet about the surrounding landscape focuses your attention to the ridgeline across from you and the glacier that grips the mountain side. Without any indication, the terrain takes a drastic change to rock-strewn glaciers and misty canyons. This hike has you wandering right into a lucid dream. You’ll start to question you senses when you spot a mountain goat peaking at your between the bushes. These sage-like animals weave in and out of your vision, watching you without trying to be seen. Reaching the peak of Mt. Ellinor should be a requirement because the view is second to none! From the primordial rocky ledge, you can see Canada, Oregon, Seattle, and the distant Cascades. With all the testosterone I can muster, this trail damn near had me in tears.
Mt. Ellinor is one of several peaks in the area, so if you have a couple days there is no reason not to hit a few hikes, the lakes and canyons hold all sorts of little treasures. The trailhead to Ellinor is west of Hamma Hamma (I’m sorry, did I stutter?) on the 101. Drive along North Jorstad Creek Road until it turns into NF-2419. Pretty soon you’ll run up the windy dirt road and into the parking lot. I highly recommend you take the upper trail head. The hike is a lot steeper than you might think and, even as an experienced climber, I was winded. The shorter five mile trail is more than enough! Trust me, you’re not missing much by skipping ahead a few hills.
9. Palouse Falls (LaCrosse, WA)
The Official Waterfall of Washington State? Hmm, that’s kind of a bold title. Why don’t you take a chill pill Palouse and show us what yo- OH MY GOODNESS! May I please have my breath back? Located in tucked away mossy canyon straight out of Indian Jones, these falls hold up to the reputation. It is almost as if someone just took a scoop out of the earth right in the path of the unsuspecting river. The hike is frankly pretty incredible as you wander through tall sandstone formations and prickly underbrush. Sunflowers grow wild in the neighboring valley and apparently, though I have never seen it, there is an abandoned school bus hidden in the fields covered in colorful tagging. The one down side: this is not the place for cliff jumping. The pool at the base of the water fall is almost entirely knee deep. Personally, I think that makes for some kick-butt squad pictures.
So this is one place that I have actually not been too before, I had to look up the best way to get out here. It seems like the easiest way to get there is going on I-9 eastbound until you reach the Columbia River gorge, then head south on 26 to Washtucna. The coolest part about going this way is you’ll pass right by the White Horse Monument. A quick pit stop, the ridge line is topped with dozens of metal horses in mid-gallop. You’ll soon experience magnificence of open plains in Eastern Washington that you can usually only be captured in Montana and Idaho. I’ve grown up on the west side of the Cascades so my bucket list holds several items to see and do in this region. If you have any suggestions, comment below! This will not be my last article!
10. Hoh Rainforest (Forks, WA)
The best for last. In more accurate terms, the most iconic for last. While appearing on every postcard from Everett to Spokane, the Hoh Rainforest has actually dipped in its number of visitors in the past five years. The merrier for you, though, because the forests beauty is in its unsullied wildness. To any of the Tolkien fans out there, tell this place doesn’t look like an Ent will come crashing your picnic. This ancient woods is the only temperate rainforest in the world, which means no freakin’ venomous snakes! Instead, expect to see white-tailed deer, black bears, and the ever-elusive flying squirrels (I have yet to see one). On that note, the wildlife is nearly as dense as the ferns; you are almost guaranteed to see some sort of furry forest critter or slimy swamp beat (Walt Disney eat your heart out). There are almost 20 different trails that loop over and under dense foliage and across beautiful pebble creeks in the valley. The majesty is truly unlike any other. Never have I seen more shades of green in my life! I cannot stress enough that it is a RAIN-forest so don’t get huffy if you left you jacket in the car.
Like I said, there a ton of places to start you visit, it doesn’t really matter where you start. I recommend starting with the Visitor Center to check out all the trails in the area. A good introductory hike is the epically named “Hall of Mosses” because it will give you a good feel for the paths. After that, take the Spruce Nature Trail for a short, easy day or the Hoh River Trail (18 miles) for some good ol’ fashioned butt burning. Camping is very-very-very much encouraged, but please use the bear boxes because these cuddly beasts are not really the “Winnie-the-Pooh”s you were hoping for. Driving here, while a long ways away, is dead simple. Taking 101 just south of Forks, turn east onto Upper Hoh Road and follow it aaaaaaaall the way to the campground. The major trail heads start right in the parking lot of the Visitor Center so park the car, grab your lunch, grab your jacket and start your trek.